Shape-Shift-Her

Exhibit Description

Shape-Shift-Her

Jellyfish, mermaids, and coral reefs have a beauty associated with them, with their tentacles, tails, and branches expressing an almost graceful femininity. Yet these body features have a dark side intended to harm victims: jellyfish tentacles shoot out venom that inflicts painful wounds; mermaids seduce sailors with their tails and lead them to death; coral branches are covered in stinging cells that capture prey for food. I thought of these creatures as being “in-form” when they are admired from afar, with their physical formation aligning with their common image, and out-of-form when they abruptly shift to wicked movements when no one is watching. Thus I wanted to create a piece that was aesthetically captivating and polished, but also had elements of sporadicity contrasting with compactness to emulate the enveloping of prey.

My wearable artwork is inspired by creatures of the sea whose features charm observers when they are “in-form,” but fluctuate out-of-form to carry out their pernicious functions. As jellyfish, mermaids, and coral reefs are commonly feminized, the base silhouette of the design was a form-fitting mermaid gown. The bright shades of orange and pink represent the colors commonly associated with these creatures, in addition to their eye-catching qualities. The diagonal seamlines that spiral around the body express the fluidity of being underwater, as well as the “transformation” of the creatures turning into predators. I used fabric manipulation to represent the duality between embodying perfect, distinct form as the creatures are being watched, and deviating into irregular shapes as they perform their natural activities. Sections of textured panels are bound by the smooth satin, reflecting the constraints of their wicked properties to put on a show of pureness. The gradual transition in the furrowing from being densely packed to openly spaced alludes to the transition back to an innocent state once they have defeated their targets. In between are skin-toned mesh cutouts that mirror the blurring of distinct structure as a creature shifts from one arrangement to another, temporarily becoming shapeless and therefore in neutrality, neither good nor evil.

The process began with white crepe fabric for the surface embellishments. For the bodice and hip panels, the furrowing technique was used to randomly hand-tack large pieces to smaller foundation pieces. As the pieces cross from one side of the body to the other, the folds transition from being small and densely packed to being large and diffused. Then the excess material was trimmed according to a draped pattern. For the godets, one-inch strips of chiffon which totaled 180 yards in length, were cut, rolled hems were created by serging, and the strips were gathered along the center to create compact ruffles. Dye-Na-Flow, a liquid fabric paint that penetrates fabrics like dyes, was used to paint the furrowed pieces and ruffles section by section. This enabled the most control over the color intensity and blending, as opposed to tie-dye, and allowed the creation of an underwater effect. The more densely furrowed portions of the bodice were more saturated and flowed smoothly to more open areas where the paints were diluted with water. The hand-painted ruffles were hand-sewn to the godet panels before the dress was assembled. Finally, the seam allowances were hand-tacked to the main fabric to avoid being visible through the mesh inserts.

The combination of fabric manipulation and vivid colors creates a striking visual that draws viewers in, which reflects the inspiration of alluring creatures that draw prey in with their appearance. Specific elements of the dress remind viewers of these creatures: the one-shoulder gown with flared hem is linked to mermaid fishtails, the triangular godets are shaped like coral reefs spouting from the ocean floor, and the vertical lines of ruffles resemble jellyfish tentacles. The spiraling seamlines help move viewers’ eyes along the figure, giving the feeling of fluid movement to the dress, which further emphasizes the underwater theme and the shape-shifting qualities of its inhabitants.

The final installation is an immersive experience that invites the audience in, just as the sea creatures allure with their visuals. The design captures both the bright and dark sides of underwater tales both from up-close and afar, achieving the goal of manipulating fabric into fashion that ignites imagination and contemplation. The entire scene, complete with mythical sounds and warm seashell lights, is meant to recreate the trance-like state observers fall into while gazing at these enticing creatures. In this manner, not only are the creatures themselves “in-form,” but the audience is as well, being held in a mesmerized frame of mind. While prior marine-themed works sought to highlight one specific characterization of sea creatures, usually as good or evil, this design showcases their paradoxical nature. Future designs can consider showcasing the duality of inspirational subjects and how they can be interpreted in different ways, leading to greater possibilities of narratives expressed through fashion.

2024 ITAA Conference Design Exhibit Catalog